The weather is just stunning - but beyond that the city is also amazingly cosmopolitan and welcoming.
The bridges - and it feels like there are loads - are charming, quaint, not over busy.
And if you like architecture then churches, mosques, synagogues, austro hungarian, moslem inspired - it's all here.
The streets are patently not paved with gold but they have a marble sheen that is well - intoxicating in this weather.
For me, it's more political tourism and I'm loving it... and as a place to be in it is way beyond my expectations.
More to follow... for now, more Bosnian coffee.